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Superior Hiking Trail Part 2: Grand Marais to Tofte

August 23, 2018 by Jenna

Michael and I started the Superior Hiking Trail, a 306-mile trail along Lake Superior in Minnesota, on August 16. This is part 2 of our adventure: Grand Marais to Tofte.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

Here are my daily recaps of days 5-7 on the Superior Hiking Trail. Make sure to check out Part 1, Part 3, Part 4, and Part 5 as well!

Superior Hiking Trail Day 5

Grand Marais to Indian Creek – 20.9 miles (including a 1.6-mile road walk) – 9 hours, 15 minutes

We woke up at about 8:00 am, showered, and headed out for breakfast. On the way to Blue Water Cafe we stopped in the Ben Franklin to pick up some insoles for me. I’ve never used insoles before, but my arches have been hurting so I figured I’d give them a shot.

It started raining while at breakfast. Fortunately, it didn’t look like it was going to last long. Originally the forecast called for rain most of the day. We only planned to hike about 12 miles, so we weren’t rushing out of town.

By the time we left the hotel at 10:45 am it had stopped raining. We still wore our rain pants figuring that the trail would be pretty wet (it was). There was a 1.6 mile road walk before getting on a trail. It started raining while we were on it.

We got on the trail and it was pretty much uphill for the first mile. After that it leveled out and we were walking on an old road/multi-sport trail for about 2 miles. We were walking through a lot of wet grass, but there were pretty wildflowers so it all evened out.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

Our first break happened at about 1:00 pm. By this point it didn’t seem like it was going to rain anymore and the trail was drying up, so I ditched the rain pants.

We continued hiking and came across a little beaver pond. The trail was a boardwalk built right on top of the dam. I’m glad it didn’t break. That would’ve been a dirty fall.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

Shortly afterwards we passed by a few campsites and crossed a county road. We took a quick break here to look at our maps and mileage. It was right around 2:00 pm. We were planning on camping at North Cascade River, which was only 5-6 miles away. That distance would only be a few hours of hiking, so we decided to hike longer since there were more campsites a few miles down from North Cascade River.

The trail was pretty flat for this part of the day with the occasional up and down. It was one of those days where we were basically walking in the trees all day. Nothing too exciting.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

We passed North Cascade River campsite at about 4:30 pm and then came to a trail parking lot. I believe the trail used to travel along the east side of the river, but the bridge that crosses it is out, so there is now also a trail on the west side. We had to road walk a little before getting on the detoured trail. We saw a Superior Hiking Trail sign on the road and figured that was were the trail started again.

We entered at the sign and it dropped us down to a path that was barely trampled down in a dark forest. After pushing through a lot of trees and sharp branches we figured it wasn’t actually the trail and made our way (by forging our own path) back up to the road. It was really tough! We immediately saw the entrance to the real trail. It was much nicer than we were just walking through. Quite the adventure though!

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

From here we walking through a beautiful grove of maple trees!

Then we started declining in elevation down to the North Cascade River. We filtered water there and had a little snack (sour Haribo gummy bears!!). We came up to a campsite shortly afterwards. It was 6:30 pm and we both had enough in us to hike a few more miles, but the next campsite was 3.3 miles away, meaning we’d probably get there right at sunset. At first we weren’t going to do it, but then figured “what the heck” and went for it.

I attribute our go-getter attitudes to the sour gummies.

The trail continued to decline and I tried to move fast. As always, the roots made it difficult.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

A little over a mile later we came up to the “96 steps”. We had been seeing this posted on signs and I was expecting the worst, like 96 steps that were each 1 foot (or more) tall. Turns out they were about 4 inches tall and in nice shape. We flew up them with no problem. *sigh of relief*

The trail was still ascending after that and we hiked up to Lookout Mountain. It was a beautiful overlook, but it’s hard to tell in the picture.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

Whenever Michael and I come to an overlook our first comment is always, “this would look so pretty in the fall”. If you want to hike the Superior Hiking Trail it wouldn’t be a bad idea to time your hike with the fall colors.

Anyways, from this point we were 1.2 miles away from our campsite and 30 minutes away from sunset. We cruised through the trail – Michael walking an easy brisk pace with me following behind practically running – and made it to camp just in time to set up the tent before dark.

While dinner was cooking (AKA while ramen was hydrating) I calculated our miles. We did 19.3 miles on trail, plus our 1.6-mile road walk! I thought we had walked 17 miles, but nope, my first 20-mile day on trail! Not too shabby for starting at 10:45 am.

Another exciting thing is that the insoles did help my arches. Yay!

We finished scarfing down our food by the light of our headlamps (so romantic) and then headed straight to the tent.

Another great day on the Superior Hiking Trail.

Superior Hiking Trail Day 6

Indian Creek to Onion River – 20.5 miles – 10 hours

I had my best night of tent sleep last night. It was amazing. Normally my tent sleep isn’t anything to be desired, so I’m glad I finally slept really well.

The good night of sleep did make it harder to get up, but I eventually crawled out of the tent and started getting ready for another day of hiking.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

After breakfast (some cold instant oats and cold coffee) we went to the stream near our campsite to filter water. Then we were on the trail at 8:30 am.

The trail started out with a nice uphill climb that brought us to an overlook. You could just barely make out Lake Superior.

A few miles later we hit another overlook. It’s nice to be able to get more views throughout the day!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

At mile 8 we hit Lake Agnes. It was a real lake! Not a beaver pond or a swamp, but a bonafide lake. We stopped and took our lunch break here since it was right around noon and there were actually some views.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

We were both hurting a little bit. Michael’s back was bothering him and I just felt sluggish. Neither of us wanted to get up and get going, but we did. Our goal was to do another 20-mile day, so we needed to keep moving.

After Lake Agnes we hiked 3 miles to Poplar River, where we filtered water. We had a nice spot on the rocks near the water, but it all of a sudden started raining on us. The weather forecast didn’t mention anything about rain, so we were pretty surprised. Fortunately, it didn’t last long.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

A quick uphill after the creek we stumbled upon another overlook, Glove Overlook.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

Another 3 miles and we were walking by Lutsen. We took a quick break to look at the maps and realized we still had 6 miles to hike. We were moving much slower than yesterday, but the terrain was also a little more difficult and less flat. With that said we figured we’d get to camp around 6:30 pm, which is perfect.

We did have some post-rain blue skies, so we took a second to admire them.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

We had three bigger (300-400 foot) climbs coming up for the day – Mystery Mountain, Moose Mountain, and Oberg Mountain. The uphills and downhills on the Superior Hiking Trail are efficient. For the most part they are either straight up or straight down with very few switchbacks. It makes the hills quick and (mostly) painless.

With that said Moose Mountain went straight up. We needed to take 5 after that one. Then we dropped 500 feet down to Rollins Creek and filled up on water. From here we only had 2 miles left. We were both so ready to be done.

The hike up to Oberg Mountain was surprisingly gradual. There were even some switchbacks! I really wanted to take the spur trail up to the top and take in some views, but my feet were barking and I just needed to be done. Fortunately our campsite was only .5 miles from the parking lot.

We rolled into camp right at 6:30 pm and were happy to take off our packs and get the tent set up so that we could relax the rest of the evening.

We made dinner, brushed our teeth and crawled into the tent. Tomorrow is a town day!

Superior Hiking Trail Day 7

Onion River to Tofte – 7.7 miles (including a 2.4-mile road walk) – 2 hours, 30 minutes

I had another great night of sleep! It’s so refreshing to actually sleep well.

Another good thing is that I’m finally getting my morning routine nailed down! I put on my t-shirt, socks, and gaiters, crawl out of the tent, and pack up my sleeping bag and pad along with my electronics and anything else I had in the tent that night. Then I make breakfast, which lately has been cold oatmeal and coffee. While the oats are cooking I put on sunscreen, bug spray, and body glide and throw my hair up in a pony tail. Then I eat, grab out my snacks for the day, and filter water (if needed). Michael’s routine is pretty similar. The last thing we do is fold up the tent, which goes into his pack.

This morning we got all packed up and hit the trail 8:30 am.

We only had about 5 miles to hike until we hit Sawbill Trail, the road to Tofte.

The terrain was pretty easy, so we were cruising.

It should come to no surprise that we walked by a beaver pond and through the trees.

Superior Hiking Trail part 2

I think I’m going to miss seeing so many cedars, birches, and maples after I leave the Superior Hiking Trail.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

We reached the road around 10:00 am. Then it was a 2.4 mile road walk to the Coho Cafe where we had lunch. The sandwich, salad, chips, and soda were exactly what I needed.

It was another .6-mile walk to the hotel. On the way we stopped in the general store to see what type of groceries they had, then the liquor store for a 6-pack, and then the Holiday Station for some Powerade.

By this time it was 12:45 pm and check in wasn’t until 3:00 pm. We crossed our fingers and walked into the hotel. Our room was ready! Woohoo!

Then it was showers, laundry, and relaxation time followed by grocery shopping and campsite planning for our next stretch of trail.

We had dinner at Bluefin Grille then went back to the hotel to pack up and get ready for a few more days of hiking!

Superior Hiking Trail Campsites

The Superior Hiking Trail has great campsites!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

Most campsites can hold 3-8 tents. Each site has a common food prep area with a fire ring and benches.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

They all also have latrines, which are basically open air non-flushing toilets.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

Superior Hiking Trail Part 2

I didn’t expect either of these things, so it was such a pleasant surprise!

The downside to these designated campsites is that you must stay in them. There is no dispersed camping in this area. Typically this isn’t a bad thing, but if the campsites are 8 miles apart and you want to hike 3 more you can’t.

The other downside is that most of the tent pads aren’t even. They are typically at a weird slant or have large roots running through it. We’ve managed to make it work. It just isn’t always ideal.

There has only been one night night where there weren’t any other people camping at the site with us. It’s fun to connect with other people after a long day of hiking, but some people just hide by their tents and that’s ok too.

Superior Hiking Trail Mileage Totals

Part 2 miles: 45.1 Superior Hiking Trail miles + 4 additional miles = 49.1 total miles

Total miles: 98.8 Superior Hiking Trail miles + 6.8 additional miles = 105.6 total miles

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Filed Under: Hikes Tagged With: backpacking, camping, hiking, SHT, superior hiking trail

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1: 270 Degree Overlook to Grand Marais

August 20, 2018 by Jenna

Michael and I started the Superior Hiking Trail, a 306-mile trail along Lake Superior in Minnesota, on August 16.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Below is my Superior Hiking Trail Part 1 with daily recaps from the first four days hiking the 270 Degree Overlook to Grand Marais. Make sure to check out Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, and Part 5 as well!

Superior Hiking Trail Day 1

270 Degree Overlook to North Carlson Pond – 17.1 miles (including a 1-mile spur trail) – 7 hours, 45 minutes

It’s our first day on the Superior Hiking Trail!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Michael and I officially started hiking at 11:50 am. It was a couple hours later than planned.

We were ready to leave Grand Marais by 9:00 am, but first I had to find a I watch. I forgot my Garmin charger in Denver. Ugh! I didn’t need a fancy GPS watch, but wanted something that could simply just tell me the time. A $25 Casio from Ben Franklin came to the rescue! Then we headed up to the trailhead, which was an hour from Grand Marais. The gravel roads didn’t treat us well and we ended up with a flat tire. Michael and my dad fixed it. After that, goodbyes, and a couple of pictures we were finally off!

It was so awesome of my parents to drop us off at the trailhead!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Unfortunately we had to hike 1 mile up to the northern terminus, 270 Degree Overlook, of the Superior Hiking Trail first.

Then, as I said before, we officially started the trail. Woohoo!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

After we waved goodbye to Canada we started heading south. There was a little bit of a road walk, first on a gravel road and then on an abandoned forest service road. From there we were mostly walking through a green tunnel of trees for the rest of the day with some short stretches out in the open.

We took our first break at Andy Lake Road, a logging road, at 1:30 pm.

The trail alternated between uphills and downhills, everything was short and steep, so I guess this kept us from getting too bored!

We reached the highest point, 1829 feet, of the entire trail at about mile 5. Unfortunately there weren’t any views to go with it.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

We took another break at 3:00 pm to have another snack and hydrate. The afternoon was pretty hot and humid, so we needed to cool down a bit.

We got our first view of Lake Superior from the Hellacious Overlook. It was pretty exciting! We’re both eager to be walking closer to lake.

It’s really hard to see in pictures. Lake Superior just blends right into the sky.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

The rest of the afternoon was more up and down hills through trees with quick glances of Lake Superior in between.

We filtered water from a dirty, little beaver pond. We were waiting to filter water in hopes that we would come across a flowing stream, but nope. It was beaver pond water for us.

Check out that lovely shade of light brown. It tasted like dirt water.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

We continued walking up and down those hills and finally made it to our campsite at North Carlson Pond at 7:15 pm, just before the mosquitoes got too bad.

There were two guys and two dogs at the campsite, so we chatted with them while we set up our tent and made dinner.

We were both pretty tired, so we didn’t linger long and crawled into the tent shortly afterwards.

A great first day! I’m looking forward to see what the rest of the trail has to offer.

Superior Hiking Trail Day 2

North Carlson Pond to North Little Brule River – 18 miles (including .8 miles of backtracking) – 8 hours, 15 minutes

We didn’t set an alarm and slept in until about 8:30 am. We took our time cooking breakfast and packing up, while chatting with our camp neighbors, so it was 9:45 am by the time we hit the trail.

The terrain was very similar to yesterday with rolling hills through trees and the occasional boardwalk. We did have a couple road walks, one for 1.3 miles on an old lodging road and one for 1.7 miles on Camp Road 20. Neither of them were bad. It was a nice break from stepping over large roots and rocks.

The most exciting part of the day was walking through Judge C. R. Magney State Park. We walked along the Brule River, which was an actual rushing river, and passed both the Devil’s Kettle and the Upper Falls. It was a nice change of pace from the continuous trees!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

On our way out of the state park the SHT took us through the campsite where they had actual bathrooms with running water. Man, it felt good to wash my hands and face! So luxurious.

From there we continued on the trail a few more miles to a cluster of campsites along the Brule River, which doesn’t have any water flowing through it in this area. We went to the farthest one, but all the sites were so slanted with either large rocks or roots, so we backtracked .4 miles to the previous campsite.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

We set up camp at North Little Brule River. While dinner was cooking we made our plan for the next three days. Since we want to get to Lutsen by Monday we’ll have to hike 20+ miles for the next two days.

It’ll be tough, but I think we can do it. My feet are hurting quite a bit, but the rest of my body feels totally fine.

I’m going to massage my feet and then try to sleep!

Superior Hiking Trail Day 3

North Little Brule River to West Devil’s Track River – 16.9 miles – 9 hours, 40 minutes

Since we wanted to do 22 miles today we decided we better get our butts out of bed and start hiking early. We set our alarm for 6:30 am and were out on the trail at 7:20 am.

We hiked for a few miles through the forest (so many spiderwebs!) and then crossed Highway 61 for a 1.5 mile beach walk along Lake Superior. We were so excited to be walking along the lake! And to filter fresh water!

The lake looked gorgeous with the gray skies.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

After about 5 minutes of walking on the stones the novelty was over. It was really hard to walk on the beach and we were moving so slow!

I still loved being able to see beautiful Lake Superior and the fresh water was totally worth it.

From there we were back into the trees.

After hiking about 8 miles we saw a sign that said “Lutsen Ski Hill 59.9 miles”, which didn’t make sense to us. Our plan was to re-supply in Lutsen, which was about 85 miles from the start of the trail. We definitely hiked more that 25 miles. The math didn’t add up. I think the sign was wrong, but we took a break and started looking at our maps to make sure our plan of getting to Lutsen was feasible.

It wasn’t.

I screwed up when we were planning yesterday evening thinking that we would be heading to a campsite 22 miles away instead of 17 miles away. The next campsite was another 10 miles after that. Since we are close to Grand Marais we decided to stop there to resupply instead. We know it has an outfitter, laundromat, and grocery store, AKA everything that we need.

We felt happy about this plan. Despite my mistake, that Lutsen sign is still wrong.

Once we started hiking again we realized it was 11:30 am and we only had 9 miles left to hike before getting to our campsite. We took our sweet time to get there and stopped for more frequent and longer breaks. It wasn’t terrible!

The terrain leading up to West Devil’s Track River was my favorite on the hike so far. The trail itself was more open and it no longer felt like we were hiking through a green tunnel. We could still see trees, but we could see more than just the ones right in front of us.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Walking through this grove of red pines (I think they’re red pines) has been one of my favorites parts of the trail so far.

We made it to our campsite at about 5:00 pm.

There was a trail register at the entrance, which we both signed with a little note.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

The campsite was beautiful – lots of space, flat tent pads, and right by some flowing water.

We set up camp and then walked down to the water. We filtered water and I soaked my feet a bit. Dang, it felt good! My feet are still getting used to the whole hiking 17 miles per day thing.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

While we cooked and ate dinner we took another look at the maps to figure out our next few resupplies. Instead of Lutsen and Beaver Bay (~85-mile stretches), we are going to do Grand Marais, Tofte, and Silver Bay (~55-mile stretches). We also made sure that the upcoming campsites lined up with the mileage that we needed/wanted.

It has been a productive evening!

And now it’s time for sleep. I’ll probably dream about the beer and the shower I’ll get in Grand Marais tomorrow!

Superior Hiking Trail Day 4

West Devil’s Track River to Grand Marais – 4.5 miles (including a 1-mile road walk) – 1 hour, 45 minutes

It’s a town day! We wanted to spend most of the day in Grand Marais, so we woke up at 7:00 am, ate breakfast, packed up, and hit the trail by 8:15 am.

We hiked for about .4 miles and then got on an old road for another 2 miles.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

The road spit us out at a parking lot for Pincushion Mountain and Gunflint Trail. We decided to keep walking on the trail for another mile since it intersected with Gunflint again closer to Grand Marais. Then it was a 1-mile road walk straight to the laundromat.

After laundry we stopped by our hotel to see if we could check in. We couldn’t, but they let us leave our backpacks there while we walked around the town. That was a relief. We grabbed lunch and went to an outfitter to grab some extra supplies (fuel canister, bug spray). Then we went to resupply a grocery store, except it turns out that grocery stores aren’t open on Sundays in Grand Marais? The only one open was a Whole Foods-type store, which didn’t really have what we needed. So we went to a Holiday Station and bought some bars, ramen, and oatmeal. Guess that’ll work!

Since our hotel room still wasn’t ready we went across the street to Voyageur Brewing Company for a beer. It wasn’t a bad time killer.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Afterwards we could finally check in, which meant that we could finally shower. Good stuff.

After relaxing for a bit we went to pick up some sandwiches, salad, ice cream (we need the Talenti containers, and beer. Then it was back to the hotel room for a nights of movies and food.

Tomorrow we hit the trail again!

Superior Hiking Trail Observations So Far

From what I’ve noticed so far the Superior Hiking Trail is very well marked. There are signs and blue blazes posted consistently along the trail. There are also mile marker signs posted at every road crossing, which there have been a number of so far.

The trail itself is well maintained. Although there are some areas that are overgrown and it’s like walking through fields of long grass.

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

The rocks and roots that cover the trail make it difficult to walk too fast, but maybe that’s a good thing?

So far the scenery hasn’t been anything too exciting, mostly tree tunnels with the occasional glimpse of Lake Superior. I think we spoiled ourselves with all the views we saw on our backpacking trips earlier this summer. I do hear that it becomes more scenic the further south we go, so I’m looking forward to that!

Superior Hiking Trail Part 1

Superior Hiking Trail Mileage Totals

53.7 miles on the Superior Hiking Trail + 2.8 additional miles = 56.5 total miles

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Filed Under: Hikes Tagged With: backpacking, camping, hiking, SHT, superior hiking trail

Superior Hiking Trail Gear List

August 16, 2018 by Jenna

Here is my gear list for the Superior Hiking Trail.

SHT gear list

As I mentioned I will be hiking the Superior Hiking Trail. I start today! I thought it might be interesting to share my gear list. I am trying to keep things as light as possible, because every little thing adds up! Below is a list of what I’ll start with, but who knows what I’ll ditch or pick up along the way.

Key Gear

SHT gear list

  • Katabatic Gear palisade 30 f sleeping quilt
  • Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest pack
  • Black Diamond trekking poles
  • Therm-a-Rest neoair xlite sleeping pad
  • Big Agnes tiger wall ul2 tent (not pictured, because Michael will carry it)

Clothes I’ll Wear

SHT gear list

  • Patagonia trucker hat
  • First Lite women’s wick quarter zip
  • Smith lowdown 2.0 slim chromapop sunglasses
  • Smartwool merino 150 pattern base layer top
  • Patagonia baggies shorts
  • Patagonia barely bra sports bra
  • ExOfficio give-n-go sport mesh hipkini brief
  • Injinji trail midweight mini crew socks
  • Dirty Girl gaiters
  • Altra timp trail running shoes

Clothes In My Pack

SHT gear list

  • Hyperlite Mountain Gear stuff sack pillow
  • Buff UV insect shield
  • Gap gfast blackout leggings
  • Injinji trail midweight mini crew socks
  • Melanzana micro grid hoodie
  • Zpacks possum down gloves
  • Outdoor Research helium rain pants
  • Patagonia stretch rainshadow jacket
  • Smartwool merino 150 pattern base layer top

Toiletries, Kitchen, Electronics, and Miscellaneous

SHT gear list

  • The TentLab deuce of spades backcountry trowel
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Bodyglide for her
  • Ben’s insect repellant 30% DEET
  • Thinksport safe SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • Toothpaste
  • Tooth brush
  • Wet Ones
  • Sawyer squeeze water filter
  • Sony hx80 compact camera
  • Extra rechargeable camera battery
  • Anker powercore II slim power bank
  • Princeton Tec axis headlamp
  • Bose soundsport in-ear headphones
  • MSR titan tea kettle
  • MSR isopro stove fuel
  • MSR pocket rocket 2 stove
  • Sea to Summit alpha light long spoon
  • Lighter
  • Hyperlite Mountain Gear roll-top stuff sack
  • Sea to summit ultra-sil stuff sack 4l

Maps

SHT gear list

  • Superior Hiking Trail maps

I will also be bringing food and water, but above is everything considered in my “base weight”. I have tested 95% of everything on this gear list on previous backpacking trips, so hopefully I won’t have any issues!

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Filed Under: Hikes Tagged With: backpacking, camping, gear, hiking, SHT, superior hiking trail

I Am Hiking the Superior Hiking Trail!

August 14, 2018 by Jenna

I am hiking the Superior Hiking Trail! Michael will be hiking it with me too, obviously.

superior hiking trail

In case you aren’t familiar, the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) is a 310-mile trail that stretches from the Minnesota/Wisconsin border south of Duluth and moves north along Lake Superior to the Minnesota/Canada border.

You can learn more about it on the website here.

We are going to hike it Southbound (SOBO) starting on Thursday. My parents will drop us off at the Minnesota/Canada border annbbd then we will head on our way down the trail.

Our goal is to finish no later than September 7, because we have a wedding in Minneapolis on September 8. To do this we’ll have to average 13.5 miles/day, which I don’t foresee as a problem at all.

After backpacking in Glacier, North Cascades, and the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness I am excited to extend the adventure over to Minnesota.

I think the Superior Hiking Trail will give me a little taste of what thru-hiking is all about. I’m looking forward to the challenge!

superior hiking trail

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Filed Under: Hikes Tagged With: backpacking, hiking, SHT

Backpacking The Four Pass Loop

August 13, 2018 by Jenna

Backpacking the Four Pass Loop has been on my bucket list for almost two years. It’s been on Michael’s too. We finally made our bucket list dreams a reality and decided to hike it!

four pass loop

The Four Pass Loop Route

The Four Pass Loop is a 26.6-mile trail just outside of Aspen, Colorado in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness. On this loop you hike over four passes (hence the name) over 12,000 feet – West Maroon Pass (12,590 ft), Frigid Air Pass (12,415 ft), Trail Rider Pass (12,420 ft), and Buckskin Pass (12,500).

four pass loop

Source

You can hike the loop counterclockwise or clockwise. It seems that hiking the Four Pass Loop clockwise, starting with West Maroon Pass, is more popular since it’s not as steep.

Most people backpack the loop in 3-4 days. Some people trail run it in a day! We decided to try it in 2 days. Our original plan was two get through 2 of the passes, camp, and then finish the remaining two passes the next day. However, when we took a look at the map and the mileage in between the passes we decided it made more sense to try to get through West Maroon Pass, Frigid Air Pass, and Trail Rider Pass all in the first day and camp at Snowmass Lake. Then save Buckskin Pass for the last day. It was an aggressive plan, but we were ready for the challenge!

four pass loop

Source

Getting To The Four Pass Loop

The Four Pass Loop starts at the Maroon-Snowmass Trailhead just outside Aspen. You can drive your car all the way down Maroon Creek Road and park at the trailhead, but you can only drive to the trailhead before 8:00 am or after 5:00 pm. You also need to be lucky enough to get a spot at the overnight parking lot. It fills up quick. If the lot is full or you arrive sometime 8:00 am – 5:00 pm you need to park at Aspen Highlands. You’ll have to pay for parking and for a bus pass (more info here). Then take the shuttle up to the trailhead. It’s slightly inconvenient and is obviously more expensive, but Maroon Bells is such a popular destination (it’s the most photographed spot in Colorado), so I understand why they try to regulate the traffic.

four pass loop

Once you’re at the trailhead make sure to self-register and fill out a backpacking permit.

Also, make sure to have a bear can! It’s required.

The Four Pass Loop Day 1

Michael and I got up to the ranger booth at 7:30 am and found out that the overnight parking lot was already full, so we had to take the shuttle up to the trailhead. After filling out our permits we started hiking around 8:30 am.

The Four Pass Loop starts right at the iconic Maroon Bells, one of the most photographed places in Colorado.

four pass loop

The first 1.5 miles up to Crater Lake has a slight incline. At 9,500 feet this felt tougher than it should have! But after the lake the trail smoothed out and was pretty flat for the next 2.5 miles. I was actually starting to get worried that we were on the wrong trail, despite following all the signs for West Maroon Pass. I just figured we’d be climbing a lot more.

four pass loop

We took our first break at mile 4 and then the trail started to incline a bit. Gradual at first, then a little steeper, and then we gained 800 feet in .7-miles to the top of West Maroon Pass at mile 6.5. It was something! I haven’t hiked in this high of altitude since last July. It makes a difference. I felt like I was moving in slow motion, but I did it nonetheless!

By this time it was 12:15 pm and we took our lunch break at the top of the pass.

four pass loop

1 pass down, 3 to go!

The hike to Frigid Air Pass was short and quick, just 2.1 miles. The initial descent from West Maroon Pass was quite steep. Then it leveled out and we were walking through meadows of wildflowers. There was also a stream where we could filter water (we use the Sawyer Squeeze).

four pass loop

four pass loop

All of a sudden it was a quick, straight up hike up to Frigid Pass.

There were some lovely views.

four pass loop

2 passes down, 2 to go!

It was a 7-mile hike from Frigid Air Pass to Trail Rider Pass. The switchbacks down Frigid Air Pass were steep and then we landed in a meadow surrounded by beautiful mountains. The trail continued down gradually switching between meadows and forests.

four pass loop

We took a break near a stream at about mile 12 to fill up on calories and water. There were a lot of nice campsites in this stretch of the trail!

We continued onwards further down into a meadow. Then it was time to climb up to Trail Rider Pass. This one was a doozy!

The incline started with steep switchbacks up a ridge. Steep as in climb-1100-feet-in-mile steep and at 10,000 feet no less. The mile was BRUTAL. We hiked slow and steady with very little conversation (because let’s save the oxygen for breathing). From there the trail softened slightly. It was still going up, but not at quite the same intensity. The worst part about it was that we were coming up to a false pass. It looked like it could be the pass, but we knew it wasn’t.

One we passed the false summit we could finally see the real pass. It was about a mile away. Hurray! We even got to walk on a flat/slightly down trail for a bit. It was so luxurious. It actually rejuvenated and motivated me a bit. The quick snack break helped too.

four pass loop

We had a little less than a mile to hike up to Trail Rider Pass. It was slow going, but I put one foot in front of the other and continued to carry myself up the trail.

During these difficult passes I’ve been trying to fill my head with words of encouragement rather than doubt. Instead of worrying about if my heart would suddenly go into ventricular tachycardia (VT) I thought about how happy I was to be out backpacking. I thought about all those times I had yearned for it throughout my surgeries, hospital stays, and recovery periods. I thought about how grateful I was that my body could do this type of stuff again. I thought about how blessed I was to be surrounded by beautiful scenery and spending time with the one I love, despite my legs and lungs being on fire. The power of positive thinking is strong! It really helped push me up those passes.

Finally, we made it to the top of Trail Rider Pass!!

3 passes down, 1 to go!

The views from both sides of the pass were spectacular. On one side we saw gray skies and mountains and on the other side we saw blue skies, mountains, and Snowmass Lake.

four pass loop

four pass loop

four pass loop

Snowmass Lake was extra pretty since that was our camping destination for the night.

From Trail Rider Pass it was 2.2 miles down to Snowmass Lake. By this point Michael and I were both ready to be done, so it seemed to take a little longer than it should have, but we finally made it.

The campsite was pretty full. Most people probably got there early to mid-afternoon. We arrived shortly after 7:00 pm. However, we were able to find a lovely campsite near the water. Michael set up the tent, while I filtered water. The thing about backpacking is that you can’t just get to your campsite and relax. There are chores to be done first! Those things went fairly quickly.

Since we needed to bring a bear can, which are heavy and bulky, we decided to pack light, even lighter than normal. Michael carried the bear can (because he’s the best) along with our extra food for the next day. This meant that all I had in my pack were my sleeping quilt, sleeping pad, toiletries, some extra clothes, a water filter, and electronics. It was so light! Michael’s bag really didn’t look much heavier. Everyone thought we were day hikers with our tiny packs. I have never seen heavier packs than I have on the Four Pass Loop! The hike was difficult enough with my small pack. I can’t imagine what it would have been like with a full 60-liter pack!

Anyways, since we were packing light we didn’t pack a camp stove. This meant dinner was cold-soaked ramen. It honestly wasn’t bad! Nice and salty. But after hiking 18 miles I think anything would’ve tasted good.

We then brushed our teeth, took some Tylenol (preventative measure), and headed into the tent.

We hiked 18.2 miles in 10.5 hours.

four pass loop

The Four Pass Loop Day 2

After a long day of hiking the previous day we decided to not set an alarm and just wake up whenever we woke up, which happened to be around 8:00 am.

We gathered up our stuff, ate a quick breakfast (a bar and cold coffee), and got on our way around 9:15 am.

four pass loop

My body was moving a little slow in the morning. I wasn’t sore yet, but my legs felt a little heavy and my cardio seemed a bit worn out. Fortunately the first 1.5 miles of hiking was a fairly flat path. This helped me warm up a bit. Then there was a mile of steep switchbacks followed by another mile of a more gentle grade and then we were on the top of Buckskin Pass!

four pass loop

4 passes down, 0 to go!

I loved looking back on the views of Snowmass and Capitol 14ers and forward to Pyramid.

four pass loop

I also loved that we finished our final pass and all we had to do was hike down a few miles to the trailhead.

We took a snack break. We also saw this mountain goat!

four pass loop

The switchbacks on the back side of Buckskin Pass were a little steep for the first mile and the leveled out to a more gradual descent.

It was starting to get pretty hot, so I’m glad we were done with our uphill hiking! Our last few miles were through Aspen trees.

four pass loop

About 4.5 miles after leaving Buckskin Pass we were back at Maroon Lake. I had to take some extra time to drink these views in. It was just so pretty!

four pass loop

We had just enough time to use the bathroom before jumping on the shuttle to bring us back down to Aspen Highlands.

We hiked 8.4 miles in 4 hours.

We did it!

Four Pass Loop Thoughts

Overall, I really enjoyed backpacking the Four Pass Loop. It is such an iconic Colorado hike. I’m glad I can finally check it off my list.

The scenery is gorgeous. Is it the most beautiful hike in Colorado as it is often claimed to be? That I don’t know, but I don’t think you’d be disappointed.

The one unfortunate thing is that so many people hike this loop. Michael and I saw more people in the first four hours of Four Pass Loop than we saw doing the Northern Circle and the Devil’s Dome Loops combined. Typically this isn’t a bad thing. I love talking to people on the trail! The thing that makes this unfortunate is I saw so much toilet paper and garbage. People, please pick up after yourself!

Aside from that point, it’s amazing and I highly recommend it.

four pass loop

I am so proud of myself for finishing this, much less being able to do it in only 2 days. This is the hardest thing I’ve done since recovering from heart surgery. Fortunately the Four Pass Loop was much more enjoyable than that!

To celebrate Michael and I went to Dairy Queen and ate Blizzards for lunch.

I’ll be dreaming about backpacking the Four Pass Loop for a while!

four pass loop

four pass loop

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Filed Under: Hikes Tagged With: backpacking, colorado, colorado hikes, hiking

Devil’s Dome Backpacking Loop

August 9, 2018 by Jenna

Michael and I did Devil’s Dome backpacking loop in North Cascades National Park and the Pasayten Wilderness last week. It was 43 miles of steep uphills and downhills and some gorgeous views.

Devil’s Dome

Securing the Permit

Similar to Glacier National Park you need to get a backcountry permit for North Cascades National Park. The permitting process is much less competitive in North Cascades because there are not nearly as many visitors (3.3M/year in Glacier and 30K/year in North Cascades). However, it’s still wise to be flexible with your plans and come prepared with a few route ideas.

There are a few different backcountry ranger offices that you can visit to get permits, but the main one is in Marblemount. It took us just shy of 2 hours to drive to Marblemount from where we were staying in Winthrop. Unlike in Glacier where we showed up at the Ranger Station at 6:00 am, an hour before it opened, we got to Marblemount at about 11:00 am, 2 hours after it opened. We weren’t as worried about getting permits and were really flexible with the route, plus we didn’t really want to wake up at 5:00 am.

We told the ranger a few of the different routes we were thinking about trying, our first choice being the Devil’s Dome Loop. Since most of that route takes place outside of the Park’s boundaries we really only needed a permit to camp at one site within the Park. Fortunately, the campground was available for the next night. Wahoo!

From what I’ve read it seems like most people hike the loop counterclockwise, but we signed up to do it clockwise. Doing it this way give us more flexibility with the miles we hike per day. We only need a permit for the first night in the Park and then will be in all dispersed camping areas for the rest of it.

You can read more about backcountry permits for North Cascades National Park here.

Devil’s Dome Loop Route

Devil’s Dome Loop is a 43-mile backpacking loop. The trail starts at the East Bank Trailhead. It goes north along Ross Lake then heads east up to Dry Creek Pass and Devil’s Pass. Afterwards it heads south along Jackita Ridge and ends at the Canyon Creek Trailhead.

Our goal was to finish in 3 days.

This is the best map I could find online.

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome Loop Day 1

Michael and I left our hotel around 8:00 am and stopped at Rocking Horse Bakery for a breakfast sandwich (they are so sooo good!!!). We drove to the trailhead and put on all of our gear. We started hiking just after 10:00 am. There was some slight confusion regarding where we actually started hiking and then ended up doing a 3-mile road walk from Canyon Creek Trailhead to East Back Trailhead. Not the most fun way to start out a hike, but I’d rather do it at the beginning than at the end!

We got through the road miles pretty quickly and then got on the real trail at 11:20 am. From here it was a 13-mile hike to our campsite at Devil’s Creek. The trail was nice rolling hills through forested area with tall, beautiful trees. The bonus of trails like this is that the path is covered in pine needles. It’s like walking on cushy carpet.

Devil’s Dome

During the last few miles we were hiking right along Ross Lake.

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome

We took small breaks here and there and made it to our campsite at 4:30 pm, just as some thunder was rolling in. Luckily, we got our tent sent up and filtered water before it started raining.

Devil’s Dome

Normally we sleep in Michael’s Zpacks Duplex, but we decided to try out a free standing tent and got the Big Agnes Tiger Wall.

It didn’t rain too long or too hard. We waited for it to die down and then cooked up dinner and headed to bed.

Overall, the day’s 16-mile hike wasn’t too strenuous; however, 16 miles is 16 miles. That’s a lot for me at this point! I’m still pretty out of shape and was hiking with a full pack, so it felt challenging, but wasn’t the worst.

16 miles in 6.5 hours of hiking.

Devil’s Dome Loop Day 2

We woke up at 7:00 am so that we could get an earlier start on the day. The weather report said 92 degrees and we wanted to beat the heat.

We made breakfast, packed up our gear, and headed out on our way.

We wanted to hike around 16 miles again, so that we had a shorter day for our last day. We weren’t exactly sure what the terrain would look like aside from a big climb right away in the morning. We would be leaving North Cascades National Park and be entering the Pasayten Wilderness. We know longer needed permits for this area, which is nice because you can hike as much or as little as you want and don’t have to get to a specific campground. However, the downside is that you don’t actually know where all the campsites are, which can be tricky if you really want to stop and there isn’t a campsite near by.

Devil’s Dome

As I mentioned we had a climb right away in the morning. I didn’t know how steep or how long we would be climbing, so I took it real slow. Maybe a little too slow, but I didn’t want to run out of gas an hour into our hike. The trail was very gradual switchbacks up through the forest.

While rounding up one of the switchbacks I heard a loud CRACK, like a tree branch breaking. I figured it was a bear. As opposed to backpacking in Glacier National Park there isn’t a huge grizzly population here that you need to worry about, so we weren’t doing any “hey bear” yelling. There are black bears though and when I rounded the corner and scanned each side of the trail I stared straight at one! He was in a tree hanging onto a branch. We looked at each other for a split second. I backed up to Michael and the bear slide down the tree like it was a fireman’s pole and ran down the slope a little bit. We watched him for a little bit to make sure he wasn’t going to charge us. I think he was just as scared as we were! It definitely added some excitement to the monotonous switchbacks.

I didn’t get a great picture. You can just barely see him through the trees.

Devil’s Dome

At approximately mile 3 we hit a big stream and decided to take a snack and water break. We weren’t exactly sure where all our water sources were going to be, so we made sure to take advantage of anything we came across.

From here the trail was a little more flat. We were starting to get out of the trees and saw our first glimpses of Jack Mountain.

The Devil’s Dome loop basically circles Jack Mountain, so you get gorgeous views of it for most of the hike.

Devil’s Dome

We found lots of ripe huckleberries along the trail. Michael couldn’t resist.

Devil’s Dome

From here the trail started to get pretty steep and we climbed for another 4 miles. Oofdah. It was exhausting. We had climbed up about 4000 feet so far. It started to level out a bit, so we took our lunch break. From here we had really great views of Jack Mountain.

Devil’s Dome

Looking at our map we only had a little more climbing left to do to get to the top of Devil’s Dome, the highest point of the hike, which is just to the right in the picture below.

Devil’s Dome

The views from both sides of the pass were absolutely stunning.

Devil’s Dome

And guess what?! After this it was downhill! Woohoo. We could finally start doing some faster mileage. We hiked down and along a ridge and went through some more forests and meadows. We took a break around mile 12 to take in some more water and calories.

Devil’s Dome

At this point we wanted to hike about 4 more miles, give or take a bit depending on where we would find a campsite. We climbed up a little bit more and then started the gradually descending along a ridge where we came across a stream 2 miles later. We chugged some water and filtered some more.

Devil’s Dome

From here is was directly downhill for about .5-miles. I seriously mean straight downhill. At the bottom we ran into 4 guys hiking the opposite direction. They told us about a nice campsite that was in a meadow near a stream and said it was up a little bit over a ridge and then down in the meadow about 2 miles away. Sounds perfect!

It was about 5:00 pm by this point. We figured 2 miles would take us about an hour. Then reality set in. When they said “up over a ridge” they failed to mention that it was STRAIGHT up over a ridge. It took us an entire hour to slowly climb that mile. Considering my legs already had 15 miles and 4000 feet of elevation gain on them didn’t make it any easier. It was almost comical how straight up the trail was. But we finally made it over and had a short bit to hike down before getting to the campsite in the meadow.

We rolled into camp at 6:30 pm. We set up the tent, grabbed some water from the creek, and started making dinner. As we were boiling the water we heard a bunch of loud noises, like big branches being broken. It was another black bear! Great. Just in time for dinner. He was up the slope from us about 100 yards rolling around dead trees looking for bugs. We yelled and him and made sure he saw us. He could have cared less. We continued to watch him as he went along his way away from our camp.

Two black bears in one day!

After dinner we hung up our food and toiletries (we didn’t want that black bear digging through our tent at night) and headed into bed.

Devil’s Dome

I’m so proud of what my body accomplished! With all the miles and elevation gain it was not an easy day, but my body felt good the whole time and my spirits were high.

17 miles in 10 hours of hiking.

Devil’s Dome Loop Day 3

Our last day of hiking and only 10 miles to go!

We woke up around 7:30 am, packed up camp, ate breakfast, and hit the trail by 8:45 am.

The morning started with a bang. It was straight up over a short ridge, down slightly, and then straight up another pass. Again, I’m not kidding when I say “straight up”. We were walking up scree field that was so steep. It was like one step forward, half a step back since I was sliding back down the rock.

You can kind of make out the trail in the picture below. We started on the opposite side of the lower ridge to the left.

Devil’s Dome

But then we got to the top and sat down to rest and take in this view.

Devil’s Dome

From there it was a gradual downhill to Devil’s Park, where we spotted this old hunting shelter.

Devil’s Dome

We walked through a meadow and then found ourselves back in the forest. It was 4 miles and 3300 feet down to the trailhead. There were a lot of switchbacks and those switchbacks were steep.

Devil’s Dome

We basically hiked as fast as we could until we got to the car. It was hot and we were ready to be done.

And then we made it back to the car!

We also figured out how to get on the East Bank Trail for the Canyon Creek Trailhead. You follow the signs from the Canyon Creek Trailhead for the Jackita Ridge Trail. Once you cross the stream the second time (both via bridges) you take a left so that you are walking west along the stream. This will lead you to the East Bank Trailhead. OR you can road walk it.

10 miles in 5 hours and 15 minutes.

Devil’s Dome Loop Thoughts

We hiked 43 miles in 3 days. It was a doozy!

The exact mileage and elevation gains that I mention above are estimates. We didn’t use exact GPS maps, but used our best guess based off of the maps and the mileage on our phones. Everything should be within a mile.

The route itself was gradual hills to gradual switchbacks to steep switchbacks to the highest point. From there it was a gradual downhill to steep downhill to straight up to down to up to down to straight up to gradual down to straight down. So fun!

Despite all the reports I read about going counterclockwise I really enjoyed going clockwise. Either way, you’re doing big climbs and big downhills.

We seemed to hike Devil’s Dome Loop on the faster edge of the spectrum at 3 days. Most other groups we came across were planning 4-5 days. I suppose it’s a personal preference! You get all the miles and the views in either way.

It’s awesome to be able to do this type of stuff again. I thought my body would be so sore and worn out, especially after a 5-day backpacking loop in Glacier National Park a few days earlier; however, I felt so good. Don’t get me wrong, when I got back to the hotel after the trip I felt pretty stiff, but nothing too uncomfortable or unmanageable. I’ve just missed this all so much and am so excited to be doing some backpacking again!

Overall, I really enjoyed the Devil’s Dome backpacking loop. There are some difficult climbs and monotonous sections, but those views of Jack Mountain are entirely worth every bit of it. The pictures don’t do it justice at all. I was in awe of views with every single glance.

Now we are off to Colorado to hike the Four Pass Loop!

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome

Devil’s Dome

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Filed Under: Hikes Tagged With: backpacking, camping, hiking, travel

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my name is jenna, but you can call me j.faye. i am a lover of food, mountains, and sunshine. read more…

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My open heart surgery was 7 years ago and it’s an My open heart surgery was 7 years ago and it’s an anniversary I will never not celebrate. 

I carried a lot of trauma with me for a long time. I was nervous for every hike, every workout, religiously checking my heart rate, wondering if this would be the time my heart fails me again. Very dramatic, I know. But I kept at it, doing these things I love to do, working through the fear. Now the intrusive thoughts are few and far between. 

So here I am 7 years later, a stronger person both physically and mentally, hanging out at the top of a mountain with my babies after a nice, challenging hike.  It’s all I really want. 

I’m so grateful for this life and for the people who continue to support me ❤️

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